‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.
Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.
“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
A Character of Modesty
This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
The Namesake Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Surpassing the Titans
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
A Philosophy of Hospitality
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Story of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
An Recognition for the Community
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.